Coastal Processes: Weathering, Erosion & Transport

The coast is a dynamic environment where the land meets the sea. Understanding the processes that operate at the coast is essential for explaining how coastal landforms are created. This lesson covers weathering, erosion, mass movement, and transport processes.

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Waves

Waves are the primary agent of change at the coast. They are created by wind blowing across the surface of the sea. The characteristics of a wave depend on:

• Wind speed — stronger winds create larger waves.
• Wind duration — wind blowing for a longer time creates larger waves.
• Fetch — the distance of open water over which the wind blows. A longer fetch produces larger, more powerful waves.

Constructive vs Destructive Waves